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Jeg kjører en '94 Plymouth Voyager med 4-girs 4WD automatgirkasse. Den ville ikke skifte til "Drive" før den var skikkelig oppvarmet, og selv da ville den ofte henge fast i 1. gir. Byttet ut automatolje og -filter, men det var ingen særlig forbedring. Etter å ha helt på en halvflaske av den der Auto-Rx deres, begynte den å skifte gir ordentlig etter bare  80 kilometers kjøring. Hver dag synes den å fungere bare mykere og mykere. Er sikker på at når jeg, i henhold til bruksanvisningen, har kjørt 160 mil, så vil den fungere som en ny girkasse. Takk igjen!

 
Spørsmål og svar om Auto-Rx®

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About Oils and Auto-Rx®
No oil can lubricate through sludge, dirt, and contaminants. It just skips to the next portion of clean metal. That build-up causes metal wear, poor performance, and repair bills. Auto-Rx® cleans the metal by liquefying the build-up so that the oil can lubricate every nook and cranny in the engine. With your engine getting total lubrication, the operating costs will decrease and engine performance will increase.

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Is Auto-Rx® compatible with my turbocharger?
Auto-Rx® is compatible with ball bearings, seals, etc. In fact, turbochargers create a lot of heat and are quite taxing on the oil or lubricant. Life expectancy of a turbocharger is typically tied to oil failure due to heat and would thus be a perfect candidate for Auto-Rx®. Keeping the system clean is key to life expectancy.

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I've heard that synthetic oil can adversely affect my seals. Does Auto-Rx® help?
We believe that using synthetic, semi-synthetic, or high-mileage oil in high-mileage engines will weaken the seal material so that the seal loses its pliability. For rear main seal oil leaks, we recommend non-synthetic oil to firm up the seal material after Auto-Rx® has cleaned it, as the chemistry in non-synthetic oil makes seals harden just right to effect a tight seal. After your leak is stopped, you can use any oil you want. But why would anyone go back to a chemistry that will start the process of seal material degradation all over again? One way around this problem is to use 3 ounces of Auto-Rx® with each oil change after a rear main seal leak has been corrected. This will protect against seal degradation and any oil can be used without creating a new leak problem.

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Why is there still some varnish in the valve area after an Auto-Rx® cleaning?
Varnish is nothing more than a cosmetic stain; it does not affect the performance of the engine. Auto-Rx® does clean off the varnish, but due to varying engine designs, it is impossible to give an exact timeframe. Be assured that functional improvements have taken place when Auto-Rx® is used according to instructions.

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When is the Auto-Rx® treatment fully completed?
After you drain your oil/Auto-Rx® mixture, the fresh oil will rinse away any remaining residue from internal engine surfaces. Although engine benefits have already taken place, it will take another 1,000 miles or so (2,500 miles on a diesel engine) to fully remove the residue, and it will be gone after your next regular oil change. Depending on the amount of contaminants removed, your oil may be very dark after this rinse.

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I just changed my oil after running with Auto-Rx® for 1,500 miles, but the oil does not seem much darker. Did Auto-Rx® really clean my engine?
If you are running your application with synthetic oil, the oil color will not change much. This is due to the additive package found in synthetic oil, which has a tendency to bind the softened deposits to the metal. It is during the rinse phase that you can expect your oil to become darker. However, if you want to see visual results quicker, you should run the entire application with non-synthetic oil.

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What is "dino oil"?
"Dino oil" is an informal name for standard, non-synthetic oil. It is presumed that the remains of dinosaurs contributed to the formation of petroleum thousands of years ago.

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Why do you recommend non-synthetic oil for the Rinse Phase of the application? We recommend simple, non-synthetic oil (do not use semi-synthetic or high-mileage oil) for this important step in the Auto-Rx® Application. Synthetic oil has a complex additive package that polarizes the liquefied debris on the internal oil-lubricated engine parts. The goal is to rinse this liquefied debris from all the internal parts; a good "dino oil" with its simple additive package does the job very well.

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Does it matter what type of oil I use with Auto-Rx®?
It does not matter what type of oil you use for the cleaning phase of the Auto-Rx® application. However, for maximum results, we recommend that you use plain, non-synthetic oil for the rinse phase. Please see our application instructions for complete details.

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Is Auto-Rx® the same as those inexpensive solvent flushes you can find at the auto parts shop?
NO! The inexpensive solvent flushes that you find in the auto parts store use powerful solvents that can be destructive to your engine and seals. These products are "shock solvents." They can only be kept in the engine a short time and have a tendency to break off large chunks of sludge that can get trapped in the engine oil passages. Clogged oil passages can cause engine failure. Oil is also negatively affected by the introduction of a solvent; it changes the chemistry of the oil, whereas Auto-Rx® does not. Auto-Rx® works slowly, methodically, and efficiently and will take approximately 1,500 miles to do its job. Engine deposits are formed layer by layer; they should be removed layer by layer. Auto-Rx® does exactly that.

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Is there any potential for damage to my engine when using Auto-Rx®? Auto-Rx® will not damage any oil-lubricated parts of an engine, including seals. Auto-Rx® is a specially formulated green chemistry (not harmful to the environment) that cleans metal without using toxic substances. It does not act like so-called friction reducers designed to disguise mechanical problems that need the attention of a professional mechanic. In fact, 99 percent of the time, poor performance will be caused by oil debris buildup between piston rings. Auto-Rx® addresses engine problems caused by brown carbon (sludge).

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Will this work for every vehicle? I have an SUV.
Auto-Rx® can be added to any engine with 4, 6, or 8 cylinders (even inboard boat engines). Do not use Auto-Rx® is any engine where oil and gas are mixed together. Auto-Rx® does not mix with gasoline.

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Do I have to use new oil when beginning the Auto-Rx® treatment?
Using fresh oil is an option most of the time. Exceptions would be contaminated oil, which would have to be changed. Many people want to see the color of the new clean oil after an Auto-Rx® application, which is understandable. However, another person may not want the added expense of starting with clean oil. Oil does not wear out; it just gets dirty. No oil, new or old, regular or synthetic, cleans carbon off metal, so there is nothing bad in old oil, just plain dirt. Auto-Rx® is going to suspend the dirt in the old oil while it goes about cleaning the oil-lubricated rotating parts. Auto-Rx® has an additive package built in its chemistry to perk up dirty oil while it is in use.

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What is the Auto-Rx® maintenance plan?
The maintenance plan is our Extended Performance Program. It is your assurance that the gains you received from your application will continue. Left unchecked, contaminants and sludge will return. For most engines a maintenance dose of 3 ounces with each oil change will maintain the benefits you received from your Auto-Rx® application. For those engines that are prone to sludge, you should use 3 ounces as your maintenance dose. After a full cleaning has been completed, then you can maintain your engine on just the maintenance dose in the future. For more information on an oil-burning issue, please contact us directly by email.

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How many times do I need to apply Auto-Rx®?
We have seen customers get extraordinary results after only one application of Auto-Rx®. But for best results, we recommend that you use it every 25,000 miles. Engines with more than 100,000 miles will need two applications of Auto-Rx® as there is so much oil debris buildup that needs to be removed. As an alternative to the 25,000 interval, you may add a maintenance dose of 3 ounces of Auto-Rx® with each oil change. This will assure that sludge will not build up after the initial cleaning and will provide full-time protection.

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I am no mechanic so I need products that are easy to use. Is Auto-Rx like this?
Absolutely! Auto-Rx® was created specifically for the do-it-yourselfer. Anyone can easily apply our product by following the simple application instructions.

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Can I still use Auto-Rx® that has been in my garage for a couple of years?
Auto-Rx® is a highly concentrated combination of ester-based cleaning components and has a thick consistency. Shake the bottle thoroughly before use. If the bottle is intact and the contents have not been contaminated by foreign substances, Auto-Rx® should remain viable for use.

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How do I use Auto-Rx® in very cold weather?
Auto-Rx® is a highly concentrated combination of ester-based cleaning components. In its concentrated form, Auto-Rx® is not flowable from its container below 32 degrees F. However, once dispersed into your host motor oil, it has little to no effect on the pour point of the host oil. In very cold weather, before opening, hold the bottle under hot tap water for 10-15 minutes; then shake well. If the bottle of Auto-Rx® has been subject to below-freezing temperatures, you may need to increase the time. In the meantime, warm the motor to operating temperature. With a warm motor and Auto-Rx® warmed to at least room temperature, you are ready to proceed with your Auto-Rx® application.

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How much Auto-Rx® do I need to buy?
Each bottle of Auto-Rx® contains 12 fluid ounces. If you have never cleaned your lubrication systems before, it will take 2 bottles for a passenger car under 100,000 miles. It will take one full bottle to run the cleaning phase in the motor. It will take one-half bottle to treat the automatic transmission. It will normally take 1 to 2 fluid ounces to clean up a power steering unit. This will leave you 2 to 3 maintenance dose applications after the initial cleaning of the motor. See the application instructions for greater detail. If your passenger car or light truck has over 100,000 miles, or has become sludged, it is recommended that you buy three bottles and run the motor cleaning application two times. The third bottle should be used for the transmission, power steering, and maintenance doses. In both cases above, more than likely, you will have enough product to achieve the maximum desired results. Take advantage of our quantity discounts available on the order page.

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Why does my engine light come on?
On some engines, internal sensors for the engine light. oil light, and temperature gage will act in an erratic manner during the cleaning phase. Do not be alarmed as Auto-Rx is removing sludge found on sensors but is NOT INDICATIVE OF A PROBLEM. Gauges will return to normal operating condition after the rinse phase.

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I hear engine noises. What is going on?
When proper lubrication fails to occur, uneven hot spots are created underneath contamination deposits. The result? A dramatic decrease in your engine's performance. It is inevitable. Engine sludge and contamination build-up are working together this very second with the sole objective of killing your engine. As you start to get oil on metal that has been starved for lubrication, you will hear noises. By the time of the rinse phase, these will be gone and will not come back.

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My dealership says that I must run synthetic oil .
To use Auto-Rx to its best possible performance, mineral motor oil is recommended. Some motor designs have been listed as possibly at higher risk of engine sludging. This may be due to small sump capacity, turbo charging, and excessively small drain holes out of the heads that are prone to getting clogged or plugged. Whatever the case may be, your dealer is likely giving you good advice. However, in an Auto-Rx application, you will be running the oil change interval for only 2500 miles during the cleaning phase and then a fresh oil change for 3000 miles known as the rinse phase. There is no daily driver automotive engine that suffers from running a mineral motor oil (conventional) for such a short duration. Besides it's a lot cheaper. If you insist on running a synthetic oil during your Auto-Rx cleaning and rinse application, I suggest running a Group III synthetic oil. This is still a mineral oil but is more highly refined and has properties, such as pour point and durability, very close to what is referred to as a full synthetic or Group IV oil. Most Group IV oils contain a relatively high level of esters in their formulation and do not perform as well during the rinse phase in particular. This is due to the polar nature of the esters, which tend to help the oil cling to the metal parts, instead of draining or rinsing off. Once you have completed the cleaning and rinsing of your application(s), then the use of the Auto-Rx maintenance program can be used with any oil.

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Auto-Rx® and Overfilling of the Crankcase
The cleaning dose of Auto-Rx® constitutes the addition of 3 fluid ounces per quart into the crankcase. In any automobile motor, this will not create an overfill problem with regards to sump capacity. To even further diminish the concern, the Auto-Rx® will get some absorption into the deposits in the motor, such as varnish or sludge deposits as it begins to penetrate the binders of these deposits. Also the Auto-Rx® blend of esters has some polarity and will be attracted to clean metal surfaces, and some amount of Auto-Rx® will remain on these surfaces after the motor has been turned off. We know of no automotive motor design that cannot tolerate this amount of Auto-Rx® added on top of a full oil fill. However, for small four-stroke motor applications (such as lawnmowers, snow blowers, etc.), please apply the appropriate amount of Auto-Rx® for the oil sump capacity. (Do not use Auto-Rx® in any engine where oil and gas are mixed together.) Auto-Rx® is the same chemistry for engines as transmissions, but the ratio changes. Transmission fluid is highly viscous hydraulic fluid in a sealed unit; 6 ounces of Auto-Rx® is all that is needed. Please visit our transmissions page for more information.

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What is White Smoke?
White smoke is almost always associated with water or, more accurately, steam exiting the tailpipe. It is odd that we would not see it during a cold startup and do see it after the motor has semi-cooled down. As you know, the motor is ingesting airborne humidity with every intake stroke. Many times, the exhaust system loads itself with water after the motor is shut down, simply by the pipes cooling and the water vapor condensing. Upon restarting the car, as the exhaust heats up, the water in the exhaust vaporizes and exits the tailpipe as steam. Perhaps if you were to watch the exhaust on a cold start in the morning ,it would go through the same steam phase as it does after your highway run. The difference being that it takes a lot longer to build up the heat from dead cold. With today's catalytic converters that re-burn unburned fuel from the combustion process, 3000 degrees at the converter are achieved. I doubt that the exhaust system has lost its heat totally during a 45-minute shutdown. However, back near the muffler and tailpipe area, it is likely to have cooled and condensed some moisture. Then, when you start the car, some very hot air from the convertor area quickly flows to the back end of the exhaust at restart. If you have no head gasket issues, whereby water/coolant is getting into your oil or being sucked into the combustion chamber, then I would tend to think that you may not have any real issue. If water was being sucked right into the combustion chamber, it would be smoking white all the time. If you have water droplets on the oil dipstick, or a frothy mess, then you have a head gasket issue. A used oil analysis could also tell if you have coolant leaking into the oil.

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Valve Stem Seals
There are many automobile engines that have worn or fouled stem seals without any appreciable loss in compression. Normally, a stem seal's lack of integrity results in burning oil caused by oil seeping down into the combustion chamber, usually causing a plume of blue smoke during cold starts, acceleration, or deceleration. Many cars run just fine with less than perfect valve stem seals. But frequently, with more than desirable amounts of oil being burned in the combustion chamber, it becomes much more likely that the piston rings will become coked up from poor fuel efficiency. When the rings, particularly the top two compression rings, get bonded together, they cannot work independently and compression suffers. If this is your case, then you can expect great improvement from an Auto-Rx® cleaning and rinse. Also, many times with oil burning from poor stem seals, deposits form at the interface of the valve and its seat at the head, resulting in poor sealing and lost compression. Auto-Rx® would help here also. Auto-Rx® can also clean oil contaminants from the polymer valve stem seal material. After cleaning, they sometimes rebound to good functionality.

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Can I use Auto-Rx® that has been stored in my garage for a long time? Even in summer heat and winter freezes?
Yes, hold the bottle under hot tap water for 10 minutes. Shake well, and it will be as good as new! When poured into the oil reservoir, Auto-Rx® takes on the viscosity of the motor oil. It does not change the chemistry of the oil.

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Can Auto-Rx® help with worn metal?
Worn metal is caused by little or no lubrication. Auto-Rx®cannot repair worn metal, but it can remove existing contaminants to allow oil to lubricate fully, thus altering the effects of worn metal.

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I recently had an oil change. Can I just add Auto-Rx® to the oil in the crankcase? Or do I need till wait to the next oil change?
Go ahead and add the Auto-Rx® to the existing oil. Please read the information concerning approved synthetic oils for use with Auto-Rx® here.

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Will Auto-Rx® Work with Synthetics?
The answer is yes if your goal is to clean out deposits and contaminants in a relatively well-maintained machine. Auto-Rx® will certainly enhance a full synthetic's ability to clean while performing its primary objective of lubricating. Most oils have only the amount of detergency to maintain a clean system, but not to clean a dirty one. So what happens is that, if you put clean oil in a dirty motor, the detergent package gets consumed long before the scheduled oil drain, and what initial cleaning occurred with fresh change, you give back at the end and maybe more over time. Auto-Rx® will give the host oil, many times over, the cleaning capacity of the host oil. The oil is still capable of lubricating while the Auto-Rx® slowly clean the deposits. However, if you are attempting to address a rotational seal issue, such as front or rear main seal or cam seal, then I would suggest using a dino oil and following the instructions here. If you have a very high-mileage, dirty motor, it will need two or more applications. I would suggest dino again for the sheer cost of running back-to-back cleanings. Auto-Rx® cleans a bit faster when run with dino oil because Auto-Rx® is composed entirely of esters that are polar and have somewhat of an attraction to metal. With dino oils, there are no other large quantities of polar materials, and Auto-Rx® has little competetion for the metal surfaces. In full synthetics, typically you have a PAO lubricating base combined with esters to hold the oil additive package in suspension. These coupling esters will compete with Auto-Rx® for space on the metal surfaces. I also note that many Group III dino derived/refined base oils are marketed as full synthetic. Auto-Rx® will work great with these, as well. So, in conclusion, yes, you may run Auto-Rx® with a full synthetic and enjoy good results. However, if you have rotational seal issues, dino would be your choice. NOTE: Please read the information concerning approved synthetic oils for use with Auto-Rx®.

 

 
   

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